The History Of Chicago's Pump Room Restaurant

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By Ross Everett

Long a hangout of A-list celebrities, the Pump Room Restaurant in Chicago is still 'hopping' in the 21st century. The restaurant, memorialized in Frank Sinatra's classic "Chicago", was one of the first high level restaurants to open in Chicago after the Prohibition era. The eatery has seen countless celebrities including Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable, Ronald Reagan, John Barrymore and countless others. For a while, it's luster faded somewhat as the dining scene in Chicago led by Charlie Trotter passed it by.

Ernie Blyfield opened the Pump Room in the Ambassador East Hotel in late'38. He took the name from an'th century London pub favored by celebrities and nobility, including Queen Anne. The original pub got its name from the hot drinks pumped into the cocktails of its stylish clientele.

The Chicago Pump Room was an immediate hit, and for a time its Booth #1 may have been the most sought after table at any dining establishment in the country. In addition to Sinatra, who frequently held court with Jilly Rizzo and a number of other associates in Booth 1, it was occupied at various times by Clark Gable, John Barrymore, Gertrude Lawrence, Bogart and Lauren Bacall. Liza Minnelli may have been the youngest Booth 1 regular, taken there many times during her childhood by her mother Judy Garland.

Blyfield died in'50, but the Pump Room remained a Chicago hot spot and hosted a new era of superstars including Mel Brooks, Beverly Sills, Paul Newman, Robert Redford. More recently, Michael J. Fox, Eddie Murphy and Mick Jagger have made appearances. A funny story involves former Genesis drummer Phil Collins, who was refused entry for not wearing a jacket. The incident was commemorated in the title of his next solo album No Jacket Required which has since sold over-- million copies worldwide and launched Collins into solo superstardom. Following its release, the Pump Room sent Collins an apology"and an appropriate jacket so that the incident wouldnt be repeated.

The Pump Room was purchased by a large restaurant management group in the late'90's. They spent a lot of money to renovate the facility, overhaul the menu and hire a top flight chef. While the Pump Room's golden era trade mark flaming food served on a sword was a tragedy of city fire codes, the menu is now on par with any in the city serving a sophisticated interpretation of classic American cuisine. In addition to the revamped cuisine, the Pump Room upgraded its wine offering and expanded the bar area.

Today, current Executive Chef Nick Sutton continues the restaurant's tradition of culinary excellence. The most amazing thing about the restaurant, however, remains the almost palpable sense of history that the dining room affords. Sitting in the same room where icons of American culture from Sinatra to Bogart held court is an intoxicating experience in itself. Chef Sutton has maintained the quality of the Pump Room's food and service to the high level worthy of the legends that have dined there.

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